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How to get to Pierces Pass.
Bladderhozen Butress.
Smegadeath Area.
Rigby Hill.
Walls Lookdown.
Samarkand Area.
Weaselbeger & Mirror Ball Area.
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MIRRORBALL/WEASELBERGER AREA




Access: Walk towards Wall’s Lookdown and jig back up the main track for a 10 m then down the ridge and into the gully, cross the creek a few times too (see map). Walk along the halfway ledge and rap in, or come down Pierce’s Pass and walk around the bottom of the cliffs on the base jumpers track (this is a good escape route too). If you know you’ll get up your route it’s best to come in on the halfway ledge, rap down and climb up to the ledge, have lunch etc, do the top pitches and then rap back down to the ledge, or walk down the easy gully if you’re on the left side.
There are rap routes below a big wattle tree for Samarkand (3 raps, scary), down Critical Mass (3 raps, plush), down Mirrorball (2 raps, easiest) and at the far right end of the ledge down Weaselberger (3 raps but the ropes often get stuck). All these abseils need 2 X 50m ropes.
If it’s windy the abseil down Mirrorball top pitch can lose you a rope. When you pull down the rope, the free end blows across the wall and wraps around the arete and jugs. Walk down the descent gully 300 meters left instead.

1/ The West face of the Mirrorball* 21 (or 19 to the ledge)[TOPO]
Sports route, rings and bolts, take 10 brackets, RP brackets fit the S/S glue-in bolts best.
Rap down (2 ropes) or walk in.
Pitch 3 + 4 of Disco Dancer is a good variant.
FA: Vanessa Peterson, Mark Wilson, Mikl

2/ Dirty Dancing 20 [TOPO]
Gear and bolts to top of pinnacle
FA: P Monks, A Duckworth

3/ Disco Dancer 22 [TOPO]
FA: Martin P, Giles, Andrew D

4/ Weaselburger* 23 200m [TOPO]
All rings, take a few plates to add to belays .
FA: M Law, S Moon

5/ Bergermiester 23 100m [TOPO]
An easier start to Weaselberger, only goes to halfway ledge, finish up Weaselberger

Access to Hotel California and Contented Cows Area:


6/ Big Nose 250m 24.[TOPO]
Each Belay has two U-bolts to allow retreat. Access is easiest down Mirrorball pinnacle. The bottom pitches are still a little dirty.
Gear: 14 Draws plus gear to clip anchors plus prussiks for second if they slip off traverse.
FA: Mike Law, Stephen Hawkshaw

7/ Hotel California* 350m 21[TOPO]
Great climbing! The biggest carrot patch in NSW. The traverse is inspiring, seconds should have prussic loops. Take about 16 brackets and 2 slings for tree belays, you need 2 ropes for the abseil. There are U’s to aid retreat on some belays, the raps for this are shown on the topo. Best to leave your car at the carpark for Wall’s Lookdown, near the Bell’s line of road. Walk down and abseil as for Mirrorball (see earlier Pierce’s Pass topo for more detailed maps), then walk around past smaller pinnacle and then, once you hit the cliff again, stay close to the cliff. Along under a chossy wall, then you have to drop down a bit and scramble around a steep hillside where Amoeba starts up a chossy gully on the left, with a steep chimney corner on the right side of the block. Scramble up towards the chimney, then right 10m to a small pinnacle sticking out of the greenery. About 10 minutes / 450 m from the base of Weaselberger to here. Many people skip to top pitch as it’s a bit chossy after rain, but should be done.
From the top, walk off left following the ridgeline, it’s a bit indistinct and scrubby at first, then you pick up an old firetrail after 250m, about 20 minutes back to the car. The route gets afternoon sun (2pm) in summer on the top pitches. A fair party should take 6 hours car to car. Best if you’ve found the Mirrorball rap route before. To retreat from the route, there is a U on belay 1, from belay 2 you can rap to there.
From belay 3 you can rap from the tree or a tree further left down to the top of the Amoeba block, and then rap down that.
From the end of the traverse (pitch 6) there is a U and a 50 m abseil will probably just reach. Start swinging before you lose contact with the wall, and go as far left as you can along the lip, first one down could clip a bolt on the traverse over to the left to get down to the halfway ledge. Take prussics!
FA: Shaz Clark, Ness Peterson, Mikl Law

8/ Contented Cows 21 240m [TOPO]
Awesome face climbing with reasonable pro, just like being at “the County”. Take a fair rack, large rocks, cams to #4 (with extra 2-4’s), bolt plates,and slings. Put up on sight, the top pitches are the good ones.
P1 50m (17) poorly protected right arete of Amoeba block, or scramble up onto the top of the Amoeba block.
P2 10m up easy crack as for Amoeba.
P3 40m (17) move right 3 m, up seam and rightwards up slab past bolts, pull over roof and up final stuff to trees.
P4 30m go left and up easy corner and up halfway ledge, 2BB.
P5 20 m Climb easy corner (as for Amoeba) and go left to 2BB(HC).
P6 40m (20) Follow Hotel California out on the traverse for 4 bolts then up seam to ledge and poor 2BB (clip bolt on lip also)
P5 50m (20) pull around lip of cave and past BR’s , right a move then back left and straight up for 40 m . Trend right last 10m to right of banksia on top, 2BB Scramble right and up to choss cliff, traverse left and up gully
FA: Mark Wilson, Zac Vertrees, Mikl Law

9/ Yesterday’s Groove 24 105m [TOPO]
Bridging up a long fused corner system followed by a lusty traverse! A bit thoughtful, bridgy, and run-out at times. Old-fashioned! Climbs a fine groove on the top cliffline only, right of Hotel California. Take about 14 brackets, you need 2 ropes for the abseil, a wire would help with high bolts too. Park near Pierce Pass and follow map to top of abseil U’s (about 25 minutes flat walk), 1 X 50m to ledge and U’s and 1 x 40m abseil then right to base of corner. On the top abseil you rap straight over the crux move, clean the slopes and check out the hidden pocket!
p1: 35 m (23) Up corner and little arete at the top, 4 bolt belay.
p2: 40 m (23) Up to good ledge and 3 BB.
p3: 30 m (24, but not the crux!) Up 4 m and traverse left, leap onto flake with feeling and up past U to top abseil station.
FA: M Law, M Wilson, G Child, V Peterson



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