1/ Smegadeath* 23 215m
The classic of the area. All bolts, take about 17 brackets, all belays on good ledges, “U” bolts on first 4 belays for retreat (you need 2 ropes to abseil)

2/ Fret Arete* 23 215m
Vanessa’s less pumpy variant start to Smegadeath, all bolts and rings, take 7 std brackets for these 2 pitches. Start as for Smegadeath
a) 25m(20) Right to crack (as for “C”) up crack (large S/S bolts, take RP hangers) to ring and bolt stance
b) 20m Up and onto balancy arete past rings and 3 bolts. Belay on 1 bolt above arete and 2 on wall behind
Walk L to pitch 2 Smegadeath, there is an abseil anchor 6m below this.
c) 3 pitch thin corner system (22) natural gear and bolts, finish up Smegadeath or rap off.

4/ Disco Biscuit 23 250m
Easy but a bit trad, retreat difficult from last pitch. Take double ropes, extra med and large cams
FA M Law, M Stacey